當(dāng)我們選購(gòu)防曬霜或帶有防曬功能的化妝品時(shí)，包裝上的“SPF 50+"、“PA++++"等標(biāo)識(shí)，并非隨意標(biāo)注，而是基于科學(xué)測(cè)試標(biāo)準(zhǔn)所得出的結(jié)果。

多年來(lái)，行業(yè)普遍遵循ISO 24444標(biāo)準(zhǔn)，通過(guò)模擬日光照射，觀察人體皮膚產(chǎn)生曬傷紅斑的程度來(lái)測(cè)定防曬指數(shù)。這一方法雖然經(jīng)典，但其依賴人體產(chǎn)生可見(jiàn)曬傷的測(cè)試過(guò)程，在效率、倫理和消費(fèi)者日益關(guān)注的安全性與透明度上，正面臨挑戰(zhàn)。

ISO 23698作為一項(xiàng)新發(fā)布的國(guó)際標(biāo)準(zhǔn)，為防曬功效測(cè)評(píng)提供了另一種技術(shù)方案。這項(xiàng)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)引入的混合漫反射光譜法，在測(cè)試方法學(xué)上進(jìn)行了重要更新，提升了測(cè)試過(guò)程的效率和安全性。了解從ISO 24444到ISO 23698的技術(shù)演進(jìn)，不僅關(guān)乎行業(yè)的技術(shù)升級(jí)，也與每一位消費(fèi)者未來(lái)所購(gòu)買(mǎi)產(chǎn)品的可信度與安全息息相關(guān)。

「從生物學(xué)反應(yīng)到光學(xué)測(cè)量的演進(jìn)」

傳統(tǒng)方法如ISO 24444依賴人體皮膚的紅斑反應(yīng)（曬傷）來(lái)測(cè)定防曬指數(shù)（SPF）。ISO 23698標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的發(fā)布則引入了一種混合測(cè)量方法，其核心創(chuàng)新在于采用混合漫反射光譜法（HDRS），大幅減少了測(cè)試過(guò)程對(duì)人體皮膚的傷害。

傳統(tǒng)SPF測(cè)試的挑戰(zhàn)：

ISO 24444的測(cè)試流程涵蓋受試者篩選、個(gè)體最小紅斑劑量（MED）測(cè)定、樣品涂抹、紫外線照射及紅斑評(píng)估等多個(gè)環(huán)節(jié)。關(guān)鍵步驟包括：

• 受試者篩選：需招募18-65歲健康成人，皮膚光型以I-III型為主，排除有皮膚病史或光敏性藥物使用史者。

• 劑量控制：樣品標(biāo)準(zhǔn)涂抹量為2.0mg/cm2，均勻涂抹后靜置15分鐘成膜。

• 紅斑判讀：光照后20-24小時(shí)內(nèi)，由訓(xùn)練有素的評(píng)估員盲法判讀剛可見(jiàn)紅斑（MED）的臨界點(diǎn)。

盡管該流程確保了結(jié)果的可比性，但其依賴人體曬傷反應(yīng)的本質(zhì)限制了其應(yīng)用效率和倫理接受度。

HDRS方法的突破性優(yōu)勢(shì)：

新標(biāo)準(zhǔn)同樣需要在人體皮膚上進(jìn)行測(cè)試，但其優(yōu)勢(shì)在于不再需要以皮膚曬傷作為測(cè)量終點(diǎn)。它通過(guò)結(jié)合體外光譜測(cè)量與體內(nèi)皮膚漫反射光譜（DRS）測(cè)量，實(shí)現(xiàn)了對(duì)SPF、UVA-PF和臨界波長(zhǎng)（CW）的同步測(cè)定。這種方法避免了測(cè)試過(guò)程中對(duì)皮膚造成紅斑損傷，提升了測(cè)試的安全性與倫理接受度。

人體曬傷反應(yīng)

「測(cè)試流程全景」

新標(biāo)準(zhǔn)根據(jù)紫外線波段特性，采用不同方法分別測(cè)量UVA和UVB的防護(hù)效果。

• 儀器準(zhǔn)備

設(shè)備校準(zhǔn)與驗(yàn)證

• 受試者篩選與UVA波段體內(nèi)測(cè)量

測(cè)試在健康志愿者的背部進(jìn)行。標(biāo)準(zhǔn)會(huì)篩選皮膚類型、顏色合適且近期無(wú)紫外線暴露史的受試者。

UVA測(cè)量是HDRS技術(shù)在人體皮膚上直接進(jìn)行的部分。光學(xué)探頭通過(guò)測(cè)量320-400nm波長(zhǎng)的UVA光線在涂有防曬產(chǎn)品的皮膚上的反射情況，直接計(jì)算出產(chǎn)品對(duì)UVA的防護(hù)能力（UVA-PF）。此過(guò)程僅需光學(xué)掃描，無(wú)需紫外線照射皮膚，故無(wú)傷害。

• UVB波段體外測(cè)量與數(shù)據(jù)融合

UVB部分的測(cè)量在體外完成。在特制的塑料板上涂抹防曬產(chǎn)品，用儀器精確測(cè)量其阻擋UVB的光譜數(shù)據(jù)。

將體外測(cè)得的全波段數(shù)據(jù)與人體皮膚上測(cè)得的UVA數(shù)據(jù)進(jìn)行整合，生成完整的紫外線吸收光譜。

• 數(shù)據(jù)計(jì)算與驗(yàn)證

計(jì)算機(jī)利用特定的計(jì)算公式，將融合后的光譜數(shù)據(jù)轉(zhuǎn)換為具體的SPF、UVA-PF等數(shù)值。整個(gè)過(guò)程通過(guò)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)品的比對(duì)和統(tǒng)計(jì)規(guī)則進(jìn)行驗(yàn)證，確保數(shù)據(jù)達(dá)到預(yù)設(shè)的精度要求。

「技術(shù)邊界與行業(yè)影響」

ISO 23698的推出不僅是測(cè)試方法的升級(jí)，更推動(dòng)了防曬產(chǎn)品研發(fā)向更高效率、更精確、更人道的方向發(fā)展。其技術(shù)優(yōu)勢(shì)包括：

• 安全性顯著提升：通過(guò)光學(xué)測(cè)量替代紅斑反應(yīng)，杜絕了測(cè)試過(guò)程中對(duì)志愿者皮膚造成曬傷的風(fēng)險(xiǎn)，體現(xiàn)了更強(qiáng)的倫理關(guān)懷。

• 數(shù)據(jù)維度豐富高效：同步輸出SPF、UVA-PF和CW，一次測(cè)試即可全面評(píng)估防曬效能，大大縮短了研發(fā)周期。

• 客觀性與可追溯性強(qiáng)化：減少人為判讀紅斑的主觀誤差，并通過(guò)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)品校準(zhǔn)和光學(xué)設(shè)備監(jiān)控，提升實(shí)驗(yàn)室間結(jié)果的可比性。

這項(xiàng)技術(shù)的普及，將使防曬產(chǎn)品的功效數(shù)據(jù)建立在更科學(xué)、更安全、更可信的基礎(chǔ)上，標(biāo)志著防曬測(cè)評(píng)進(jìn)入一個(gè)以光學(xué)技術(shù)為核心的新發(fā)展階段

「產(chǎn)品推薦」

Solar Light 開(kāi)發(fā)的 HDRS 測(cè)試系統(tǒng)——Poly602 與 Mono602 型號(hào)，符合 ISO 23698 測(cè)試標(biāo)準(zhǔn)，為防曬產(chǎn)品測(cè)評(píng)提供高效、可靠的技術(shù)解決方案。

產(chǎn)品優(yōu)勢(shì)

• 快速獲取SPF和UVA-PF結(jié)果

• 單次測(cè)量?jī)H需3-4秒（Poly602）/ 30秒（Mono602系統(tǒng)）

• 無(wú)皮膚紅斑反應(yīng)，照射總能量低于國(guó)際紫外線安全閾值

• 受試者每7天可參與一次混合漫反射光譜（HDRS）測(cè)試

系統(tǒng)核心配置

• Poly602 / Mono602 HDRS主機(jī)

• LS1000太陽(yáng)光模擬器

• SPF290紫外線透過(guò)率分析儀

• PMMA測(cè)試板

• RestAssured 服務(wù)、維護(hù)與保修

愛(ài)博能作為其在中國(guó)區(qū)的代理商，為您提供符合防曬測(cè)試標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的測(cè)試系統(tǒng)及全套解決方案。歡迎垂詢了解更多！

ISO 23698 Sun Protection Testing Standard: How It Affects Your Sunscreen Choice

When purchasing sunscreen or cosmetics with sun protection, labels such as "SPF 50+" and "PA++++" on the packaging are not arbitrary; they are derived from scientific testing standards.

For years, the industry has widely followed the ISO 24444 standard, which measures the sun protection factor by simulating sunlight exposure and observing the degree of erythema (sunburn) on human skin. Although this method is classic, its reliance on inducing visible sunburn in human subjects presents challenges in terms of efficiency, ethics, and the growing consumer demand for safety and transparency.

As a newly published international standard, ISO 23698 offers an alternative technical approach for evaluating sun protection efficacy. This standard introduces Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (HDRS), representing a significant methodological update that improves the efficiency and safety of the testing process. Understanding the technical evolution from ISO 24444 to ISO 23698 is relevant not only for industry technological advancement but also for the credibility and safety of the products every consumer will purchase in the future.

Evolution from Biological Response to Optical Measurement

Traditional methods like ISO 24444 rely entirely on the erythemal response (sunburn) of human skin to determine the Sun Protection Factor (SPF). The introduction of the ISO 23698 standard brings in a hybrid measurement method. Its core innovation lies in adopting Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (HDRS), significantly reducing harm to human skin during testing.

Challenges of Traditional SPF Testing

The ISO 24444 testing protocol involves multiple steps: subject screening, determination of individual Minimal Erythema Dose (MED), product application, UV irradiation, and erythema assessment. Key steps include:

• Subject Screening: Requires recruiting healthy adults aged 18-65, primarily with skin phototypes I-III, excluding individuals with a history of skin disease or use of photosensitizing medication.

• Dosage Control: The standard product application amount is 2.0 mg/cm2, applied evenly followed by a 15-minute waiting period for film formation.

• Erythema Reading: 20-24 hours after irradiation, trained assessors perform blind readings to determine the endpoint for the just-perceptible erythema (MED).

While this process ensures result comparability, its inherent reliance on inducing sunburn in humans limits its application efficiency and ethical acceptance.

Breakthrough Advantages of the HDRS Method

The new standard also requires testing on human skin, but its advantage is that it no longer requires skin sunburn as the measurement endpoint. By combining in vitro spectroscopic measurements with in vivo skin Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (DRS) measurements, it enables the simultaneous determination of SPF, UVA-PF, and Critical Wavelength (CW). This method avoids causing erythema damage to the skin during testing, enhancing safety and ethical acceptance.

MED

Panorama of the Testing Process

Based on the characteristics of UV wavelength bands, the new standard employs different methods to measure UVA and UVB protection effects separately.

a. Instrument Preparation

Calibration and Verification

b. Subject Screening and In Vivo UVA Band Measurement

Testing is conducted on the backs of healthy volunteers. The standard screens for suitable subjects based on skin type and color, and who have had no recent UV exposure.

The UVA measurement is the part where HDRS technology is directly applied to human skin. An optical probe measures the reflection of UVA light (320-400nm) from skin treated with the sunscreen product, directly calculating the product's UVA protection ability (UVA-PF). This process involves only optical scanning without exposing the skin to UV radiation, thus causing no harm.

c. In Vitro UVB Band Measurement and Data Fusion

The UVB portion is measured entirely in vitro. The sunscreen product is applied to specialized plastic boards, and instruments precisely measure its spectral data for blocking UVB.

The full-spectrum data obtained in vitro is then integrated with the UVA data measured on human skin to generate a complete UV absorption spectrum.

d. Data Calculation and Verification

A computer uses specific calculation formulas to convert the fused spectral data into concrete numerical values such as SPF and UVA-PF. The entire process is validated through comparison with standards and statistical rules, ensuring the data meets predefined precision requirements.

Technical Boundaries and Industry Impact

The introduction of ISO 23698 is not merely an upgrade in testing methodology; it propels the development of sunscreen products towards higher efficiency, greater precision, and more humane practices. Its technical advantages include:

•   Significant Safety Enhancement: By replacing erythemal response with optical measurement, it eliminates the risk of causing sunburn to volunteers' skin during testing, reflecting stronger ethical consideration.

•   Rich Data Dimension and High Efficiency: Simultaneous output of SPF, UVA-PF, and CW allows for a comprehensive assessment of sun protection efficacy in a single test, greatly shortening the R&D cycle.

•   Enhanced Objectivity and Traceability: Reduces subjective errors from human erythema reading and improves inter-laboratory result comparability through standard calibration and optical equipment monitoring.

The widespread adoption of this technology will establish the efficacy data of sunscreen products on a more scientific, safer, and more credible foundation, marking the entry of sun protection testing into a new development stage centered on optical technology.

Product Recommendation

Solar Light's HDRS testing systems—the Poly602 and Mono602 models—comply with the ISO 23698 testing standard, providing efficient and reliable solutions for sunscreen product evaluation.

Core System Advantages

•   Rapid acquisition of SPF and UVA-PF results

•   Single measurement takes only 3-4 seconds (Poly602) / 30 seconds (Mono602 system)

•   No skin erythema response, total irradiation energy below international UV safety threshold

•   Subjects can participate in Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (HDRS) testing every 7 days

Core System Configuration

•   Poly602 / Mono602 HDRS Main Unit

•   LS1000 Solar Simulator

•   SPF290 UV Transmittance Analyzer

•   PMMA Test Plates

•   RestAssured Service, Maintenance & Warranty

As its authorized distributor in China, Aibotn provides testing systems and complete solutions that comply with sun protection testing standards. Feel free to contact us for more information!